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When assembling a ranking of London’s best dining spots, one might expect well-known Michelin-starred names. However, situated near the top among these culinary heavyweights is a simple salonu located in a far-flung corner of north London.

A Surprise Accolade

This compact Turkish eatery, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a respected gastronomic guide. The honour has left the owners totally astonished.

“I am utterly surprised,” says the proprietor, alluding to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their modest place earning such a high ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing spot, has kept much of its original charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking display, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” comments the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the fare, and this establishment definitely excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a tender texture.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. Once the meaty mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than is typical, giving it a deeper, nuttier and less sickly profile.

Outranking the Titans

Remarkably, this modest spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the summit of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place satisfied for below £25, comparable meals at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

The Creed of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a role of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy establishments. “I feel truly happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she had a personal life but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

An Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s success is set to echo outside its own walls. “I think many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the wider importance of this culinary triumph.